Wales
Etymology and other names
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Sources from old books
1682. Cosmography and geography in two parts by Richard Blome.
WALES.
THE Island of great Britain, in ancient time, was severed into three Parts; the first, fairest, and greatest, contained all within the French Seas, the Rivers of Severn, Dee, and Humber, and was called Lhoyger, which name in Welsh it still retaineth; and in English, England. The second took up all the Land Northwards, from the Humber to the Orkney Isles, and was called Mare Caledonium, or Deucaledonium, and now Scotland: And the third lying between the Irish Seas, the Rivers of Severn and Dee, was anciently called Cambria, and now Wales; to which the Britains being outed of their Country, were forced to retire, and there fortified themselves.
This Country of Wales is bounded on all sides by the Sea, except towards England, from which it is severed by the River Dee, and a Line drawn to the River Wye; but anciently it was extended to the River Severn Eastward, for Offa King of the Mercians forced them to quit the Plain Countries beyond that River (which now is called the Marches of Wales,) and to betake themselves to the Mountains, which he caused to be separated from England by a great Ditch, called Offa's Dike; in Welsh, Claudh Offa; in many places yet to be seen; which Dike beginneth at the influx of the Wye into the Severn, and reacheth unto Chester, which is about 84 miles; where the Dee disburthens it self into the Sea. And over this Dike (by a Law made by Harald) no Welshman was permitted to pass with a Weapon, upon pain of losing his Right hand.
The whole Country is Mountainous and Barren, yet affordeth several good Commodities, and is not without many fertil Valleys, which bear good Corn, and breed great abundance of small Cattle, with which they furnish England, as also with Butter, Cheese, Woollen-Cloths, called Welsh-Frizes, Cottons, Bays, Herrings, both White and Red, Calve-skins, Hides, Hony, Wax, &c. and the Country is well stored with Quarries of Free-stone for building, and Millstones; as also hath Mines of Lead, Lead-Oar, Coals, and some of Silver and Tin. And these Commodities are generally brought to Shrewsbury, Oswestre, Bristol, Worcester, and other adjacent parts, and thence dispersed into England.
About the year of Christ 870, Rodericus Magnus, King of Wales, divided this Country into three Regions, Territories, or Talaiths, which were so many Kingdoms, to wit, Gwineth, Venedotia, or North-Wales; and this part he gave to Anarawd, his eldest Son; Deheubarth, or South-Wales, which he gave to Cadelh, his second Son; and Powis, or Powis-Land, which he gave to Mervin, his third Son: and in each of these three Kingdoms he appointed a Royal Palace, as at Aberffraw, in the Isle of Anglesey, for North-Wales; at Dynefar, or Dynevowr-Castle, not far from Carmarthen, for South-Wales; and at Matravan, in Montgomery-shire, for Powis-Land.
But at present, according to Act of Parliament, made in the Reign of King Henry the Eighth, it is severed into two Parts, to wit, North-Wales and South-Wales, both which have as it were devoured all Powis-Land; and in each of these parts there are 6 Counties; in the North, those of Anglesey, Caernarvon, Denbigh, Flint, Merioneth, and Montgomery; and in the South, those of Brecknock, Cardigan, Carmarden, Glamorgan, Pembroke, and Radnor.
Again, Wales (like unto England) is divided into four Circuits for the Administration of Justice; and then the first shall contain the Counties of Denbigh, Flint, and Montgomery; the second, those of Brecknock, Glamorgan, and Radnor; the third, those of Cardigan, Carmarden, and Pembroke; and the fourth, those of Anglesey, Caernarvon, and Merioneth.
But to proceed to the description of these Counties, and first of North-Wales.
NORTH-WALES.
THe Island of ANGLESEY is severed from Caernarvon-shire by a narrow Streight of the River Menai, and on all other parts it is washed with the Irish Seas. It was the ancient Seat of the Druids, and brought with no small difficulty under the Roman Scepter by Julius Agricola. It is so fertil, and abounding in all things, as Corn, Cattle, and Provisions, that the Welsh term it the Mother of Wales, supplying its defects; although for fight it seemeth dry, stony, and hilly. It produceth a sort of Stones called Molares, very fit and good for Mill-stones, and Grind-stones.
In this Isle were formerly seated 360 Towns and Villages, but at present but 74, and hath intercourse of Traffick with two Markes Towns, and hath several good Ports and Harbours, as also divers Ferries, for the conveyance of Passengers to and fro. Its chief places are,
Beau-Morish, seated on a Moorish-ground, but commandeth a fair prospect into the Sea, where it hath a very good Harbour for Ships. It was built by King Edward the First, the better to secure his Conquest, who fortified it with a powerful Castle, now in good repair. It is a pretty good handsom Town Corporate, governed by a Major, Recorder, 2 Bailiffs, who are Justices of the Peace, and 21 Common Council, called Burgesses. It is the chief Shire-Town, where the Assizes and Sessions are held, sends a Burgess to Parliament, is indifferently well inhabited and frequented, as being the usual place for the reception of Passengers from London to Ireland, before their taking Shipping at Holyhead. It hath weekly two Markets, on Wednesdays and Saturdays, which are indifferent good.
Newburgh, seated near Brant River, where it formeth a Bay, and falleth into Menai River; a small Borough Town, governed by a Major, 2 Bailiffs, and a Recorder, and hath a Market on Tuesdays.
The County of CAERNARVON, before Wales was divided into Shires, bore the name of Snowden-Forest from the principal Hill therein seated, which is of a very great height and extent, and affordeth excellent sweet Mutton; on the top of this Hill floateth a Meer, and maketh a River, and falleth into the Sea at Trathe-Mawer. It is a County of a sharp Air, very Mountainous; yet not unfertil, and feedeth good Herds of Cattle.
In this County are seated 68 Parish Churches, and hath six Market Towns:
Caernarvon, commodiously seated on the Sea-shoar, where it hath an excellent prospect into the Isle of Anglesey. It was a place of good account, where the Princes of Wales had their Exchequer and Chancery for North-Wales; and is a place of great strength as well by Nature as Art, being encompassed on all parts (except towards the East) with the Sea and two Rivers, and had a strong Castle, where, in a Tower thereof called Eagle-Tower, Edward the Second, the first Prince of Wales was born. It is a place of no great extent, having but one Parish Church; its Houses and Streets are well built and ordered, is well inhabited, enjoyeth several Immunities, sends a Burgess to Parliament, is governed by the Constable of the Castle, who is ever Major, and hath for his assistance an Alderman, 2 Bailiffs, a Town-Clerk, with Sub-Officers; and its Market on Saturdays, is very good for Corn and Provisions.
Bangor, lowly seated on the Sea-shoar; a Town in Ancient time so large, that it was called Bangor the Great, and was defended by a powerful Castle, which long since was laid level to the ground. It is at present but a small City, or rather a Town, yet dignified with the See of a Bishop; its Cathedral is large and well built, its Houses indifferent good, is pretty well inhabited, is governed by the Bishops-Steward, who keepeth Court-Leets and Courts-Baron for the Bishop; and hath an indifferent good Market on Wednesdays.
Nigh unto Bangor is Penmaen-maur, that is, the Great Stony-head, being an exceeding high and steep Rock, which at High-Sea so hangeth over, that it affordeth a very narrow and dangerous passage; but having passed this, and Penmaen-byehan, that is, the Lesser Stony-head, the Country openeth it self in a broad Plain as far as the River Conwey.
Aberconwey, seated at the Mouth of the Conwey, raised out of the Ruins of the ancient Canonium of Antonine, being strongly fenced both with Walls and a Castle. It is a pretty good Town, governed by an Alderman and 2 Bailiffs, which for largeness and good Buildings, doth rather deserve the name of a City than a Town, especially were it thicker inhabited, and better resorted unto; yet its Market, which is on Fridays, is well served with Provisions and several Country-commodities.
Pulhely, seated on the Sea-shoar, and between two Rivers; a pretty large and indifferent well-built Bailiwick Town, which hath a good Market on Wednesdays for Corn and Provisions, and enjoyeth a good Trade by Sea.
DENBIGH-SHIRE, a Country very Hilly, several of which are of so great a height, that they retain Snow, and the tops thereof in the Summer season are the Country-mans Morning-Almanack, to denote a fair day by the rising of certain Vapours.
It is of a different Soil; the Western part being Heathy, is much inclined to sterility, and but thinly inhabited, except the part which lieth towards the Sea; the Eastern (beyond the Valley) is much more barren; and the middle, where it lieth flat, is a pleasant and fertil Vale, and well inhabited with Gentry.
Here are seated 57 Parish Churches, and is traded unto by four Market Towns.
Denbigh, seated on the hanging of a Rocky-Hill, and on a branch of the Cluyd; once a place of good strength, when fortified with a strong Wall, and an impregnable Castle. The Town is indifferent large, well built, inhabited by Glovers and Tanners, enjoyeth a good Trade, by some esteemed the best Town in North-Wales; is governed by 2 Aldermen, 2 Bailiffs, and 25 Capital Burgesses, with sub-Officers; electeth a Parliament man, and hath a good Market for Corn, Cattle, and Provisions, on Wednesdays.
Ruthin, seated on the Cluyd, which washeth a rich Vale, of note for its once large and fair Castle. It is a large, well inhabited and frequented Town Corporate, governed by 2 Aldermen and Burgesses, hath a large Hospital, and a Free School, governed by a Warden; and hath a very considerable Market for Corn and Provisions on Mondays, which is esteemed the best in the Vale.
Wrexham, seated in a good Soil, affordeth plenty of Lead, and on a small River which falleth into the Dee. It is an indifferent large, well-built and inhabited Town, graced with a fair Church, whose Steeple is not inferiour to any in England; and hath two Markets weekly, viz. on Mondays, which is but small, and on Thursdays, which is very great for Corn, Cattle, and Provisions.
In this County is Llansainan, seated on the River Aled; a small Town, but of note for its Cave made in the side of a Rock or Stony-hill, wherein are 24 Seats, some bigger and some lesser, known by the name of Arthur's Round-Table; a place much frequented by Shepheards and Heardsmen.
The County of FLINT is not over Mountainous; and those that are being interlaced with fertil Valleys, affordeth plenty of Corn and Pasturage; it hath great abundance of Hony, but is very defective of Wood and Fruits. It is indifferently well watered, hath several safe Harbours for Ships to Ride and Anchor in; and this part of the County hath plenty of Mines of Pit-Coal, and the adjacent Mountains have store of Lead-Oar.
This Shire is famous for St. Winfrids-Well, not far from Cajervis, in English, Holy-Well; a place of great note, and much resorted unto, as well by those to Bath in, as being esteemed very good for several Diseases; as by Pilgrims, out of their devotion in memory of that Christian Virgin Winfrid, who was there ravished by a young Lord or Prince of the Country, and to stop her Acclamations, cruelly slew her and cut off her Head; out of which place (according to Report) did immediately gush forth a Spring, which is of so rapid a Stream, that at a small distance it is able to drive a Mill. Over the Head of this Spring or Well there now standeth a Chapel built of Free-stone, of curious workmanship; and in the Chancel, on the Glass-window is lively pourtraied the History of St. Winfrid; of her life, and how her Head was cut off, and set on again by St. Reuno. In the Well there groweth Moss, of a most sweet and pleasant smell, which is said to be St. Winfrids-hair.
Here are seated 28 Parishes, and hath two Market Towns.
Flint, well seated on the Dee•, of chief note for its now old and ruinous Castle; and although the Shire-Town is but small, and hath no Market; but as a Borough-Town, electeth Parliament man.
St. Asaph, seated on the Elwy, where it receiveth the Cluyd, over each of which there is a Bridge; a place of more fame for its antiquity, than largeness or beauty, being an ancient Episcopal See, founded by Kentigerne, a Scot, Bishop of Glasco, in Anno 560, of which about 300 that were unlearned, employed their times in Husbandry within the limits of the said Monastery, and the rest to a Holy life. By this it may be judged their Bounds were exceeding large; and upon his return into Scotland, he ordained Asaph (a godly man) to be his Successor, from whom the Town or City took its name, which at present is not large, not its Buildings very good, chiefly glorying in its Cathedral. It hath a small Market on Saturdays.
The County of MERIONETH is exceeding Mountainous and Rocky, very unpleasant, and for the generality much inclined to sterility, bearing but thin Crops of Corn; yet is found to feed good flocks of Sheep, and Herds of Cattle, from which the Inhabitants draw their chief Maintenance. It is observed, that these Mountains are of so great an height, that in many places two men may stand and discourse together, each upon a several Mountain, but must travel some miles before they can come to meet. It is well watered with Rivers, and is well provided with red Deer, Fowl, and Fish; and as this County is thus Mountainous and barren, so is it as thinly inhabited, numbring but 37 Parishes, and those but ordinary, and hath but three Market Towns.
Harlech, seated on a Rock on the Sea-shoar; a small Borough Town, which is but thinly inhabited, nor its Houses over well built, although the chief of the County. It is governed by a Major for its chief Magistrate, sends a Burgess to Parliament, and hath a mean Market. This Town was once of a greater account for its strong and beautiful Castle, highly seated, commanding both Sea and Country adjoyning; but was reduced to Ruins in the late unhappy Wars by the Parliamentteers, this being a Garrison of the Kings.
Bala, seated near Pimble-Meer, which is of a large extent, through which the Dee is said to run, but not to mingle with its water, which is proved for that the Salmons, plentifully taken in the Dee, are not found in this Meer; and likewise the Fish called Gwyniaid, much like unto Whitings, which is in as great plenty taken in this Meer, are never found in the Dee. This Town is Incorporated, enjoyeth some Immunities, is governed by Bailiffs, hath an indifferent Market on Saturdays; but the Town is mean and small.
MONTGOMERY-SHIRE, very Hilly and Mountainous, but interlaced with fertil Valleys both for Tillage and Pasturage, and was in ancient time of note for its good breed of Horses.
Here are seated 47 Parish Churches, and is traded unto by 6 Market Towns.
Montgomery, the Shire-Town, so called from Roger de Montgomery, Earl of Shrewsbury, the first builder thereof. It is well seated amongst rich grounds, and on an easie Ascent of a Hill; a place once fortified with a powerful Castle, and fenced about with a Wall, which was dismantled in the late Wars. It is an indifferent large Town Corporate, governed by Bailiffs, sends a Burgess to Parliament, and its Market, which is on Thursdays, is well resorted unto, and hath a good Shambles.
Welch-Pool, seated on the Severn, and in a rich Vale; the greatest and best built Town Corporate in the County, governed by Bailiffs, is well inhabited, enjoyeth a very good Trade for English Commodities from Bristol, and its Market on Mondays is very considerable for Cattle, Provisions, and Flannels. Its Castle, called Powis-Castle (which within the compass of its Wall containeth two Castles,) is of late a large and stately Pile of Building.
Llanvilling, scituate in a Flat amongst the Hills, and between the Cain and the Ebir; it is a good Town, and hath a considerable Market for Cattle, Corn, Wool, and Provisions, on Thursdays.
Within three miles of this Town is Matravan-Castle, sometimes the Royal Seat of the Princes of Powis-Land.
SOƲTH-WALES.
PEMBROKE-SHIRE, called in Welsh, Brechinean, is said to take its name from one Brechanius a Prince, who had a great Off-spring of 24 Daughters, and all Saints. It is a County for the generality very Mountainous, some of which are exceeding high, especially Monuchdenny-Hill, not far from Brecknock, which exalteth it self above the Clouds; and although thus Hilly, yet is not without many large and fertil Plains and Valleys, both for Corn and feeding of Cattle; and the more by reason of the Rivers, Ʋske and Wye, which receive those many Streams that so plentifully water the County, and afford to the Inhabitants great abundance of Fish, especially Salmon and Trouts, in the Wye.
Here are seated 61 Parish Churches, and 4 Market Towns.
Brecknock, seated at the meeting of the Rivers Hodney and Ʋske, over which it hath a fair Stone-bridge. It is a place of good antiquity, and at present a very large Bailiwick Town, containing 3 Parish Churches, one of which is a Collegiate Church; its Houses are well built, was once strengthned with a stately Castle, as also with a strong Wall, which gave entrance by 3 Gates. It is governed by 2 Bailiffs, 15 Aldermen, 2 Chamberlains, a Town Clerk, &c. amongst its Immunities sends a Burgess to Parliament; is a place well inhabited, and the rather as being the Shire-Town where the Assizes are held. It enjoyeth a good Trade for Clothing, and hath weekly two Markets, on Wednesdays and Saturdays, which are very well served with Cattle, Corn, and Provisions.
About two miles from this Town is a large Meer or Pool some miles in compass, called Brecknock-Meer, where in former times stood a fair City, which was swallowed up by an Earthquake.
Hay, seated between the Wye and the Dulas; a Town of good note in the time of the Romans, being then sortified with a Castle and a Wall. It is at present a good Town, and hath a very great Market for Corn, Cattle, and Provisions, on Mondays.
Bealt, pleasantly seated amongst the Woods, and on the Banks of the Wye, over which it hath a very large Wooden-Bridge, which leads into Radnorshire; at present a pretty small Town, enjoying a considerable Trade for Stockings, and hath weekly two very good Markets, on Mondays for Cattle, and on Saturdays for Corn and Provisions.
CARDIGAN, a County of a different Soil, and ill clothed with Wood; the Southern and Western parts being plain and very fertil (yet not without some Hills,) and its Eastern and Northern parts are Mountainous, and not so fertil, amongst which is the Plinillimon-Hill, a Mountain of a very great extent and height.
Here are numbred 64 Parish Churches, and hath 4 Market Towns.
Cardigan, formerly strengthned with a Wall, and a fair and spacious Castle, built on the side of the Tywye upon a Rock, long since brought to ruin. It is a Town no less pleasantly than commodiously seated on the said River Tywye, over which it hath a fair Stone-bridge, sustained by several Arches, and is of no great distance from its influx into the Sea; and being the Shire-Town where the Assizes are held, and the County-Gaol kept; is well inhabited and frequented, being a large Town, though containing but one Church, which is a fair Structure, and is graced with a well built Shire-Hall, with several good Buildings; and as a Town Corporate, is governed by a Major, Aldermen, Common Council, with sub-Officers; enjoyeth several Immunities, electeth a Parliament man, and hath an indifferent good Market on Saturdays.
Llanbeder, seated on the Tywye, over which is a Bridge which leadeth into Caermarden-shire; an indifferent good Town, governed by a Port-Reive and Steward, and hath a Market on Tuesdays, which is well resorted unto for Grain and Provisions, and from the latter end of April to the beginning of July, is very great for Sheep, Heifers, Cows and Calves.
Aberysthwy, seated on a Rising-ground, and on the Banks of the Ridall, near its influx into the Sea; a Town once strengthned with a Wall and Castle, now ruinated. It is a long and ill-built Town, governed by a Major, with sub-Officers, hath a very great Market for Corn, Wool, Cheese, and Provisions, on Mondays, and is a place much resorted unto by reason of its Fishing-trade, and would be more were its Inhabitants industrious.
Near unto this Town is Lhan-Badernvaur; a well-built Town, graced with a fair Church, which was formerly an Episcopal See, and is now the Parish Church of Aberysthwy.
CAERMARDEN-SHIRE is generally of a fertil Soil both for Tillage and Pasturage, as not being so Mountainous as its Neighbouring Counties, and is well watered with Rivers, as the Tovye, Taoy, Lough, or Taff, which (with others) discharge themselves into the Sea, plentifully serving the Inhabitants with Fish and Fowl; and in many places are dug Pit-Coal.
Here are seated 87 Parish Churches, and is traded unto by 8 Market Towns.
Caermarden, pleasantly seated on the Towy, over which it hath a fair Stone-bridge, and is navigable for small Vessels, having a good Key for the lading and unlading of their Merchandizes. It is a place well inhabited and traded unto, and as a Town Corporate is governed by a Major, 2 Sheriffs, elected out of 16 Burgesses or Aldermen, all clad in Scarlet, with other sub-Officers. Amongst its Immunities electeth a Parliament man, keepeth Courts for the trial of Causes, is the place where the Assizes are held, and hath weekly two Markets, on Wednesdays and Saturdays, which are very great for Corn, Cattle, and Provisions, both Flesh, Fish, and Fowl, in great plenty. This Town glorieth in giving birth to Merlyn, that famous British Prophet, or South-sayer.
Llancharn, or Llangharne, seated on the Towye, near its influx into the Sea; a well-built Town, of some Trade, having several Vessels belonging to it, and its Market, which is on Fridays, is very good for Corn and Provisions.
Near unto this Town is a Wich, or Salt-work, where good quantity of Salt made.
Llanelly, seated on a Creek of the Sea; a pretty good Town, which is well traded unto for Sea-Coal, and hath a Market on Thursdays, of good account for all sorts of Cattle, Corn, and Provisions.
Llandilovawre, seated on the Towy, over which it hath a fair Bridge; a pretty good Town, having two Markets weekly, on Tuesdays and Saturdays, for Cattle, Corn, and Provisions; and the Parish to which this Town belongeth is about 13 miles in length, and 7 or 8 in breadth.
Llanymdofry, seated amongst Rivers; a pretty fair Bailiwick and Town Corporate, and hath two very great Markets weekly, on Wednesdays and Saturdays, for Provisions, and the greatest in the County for Cattle and Sheep.
The County of GLAMORGAN is of a temperate and healthful Air, and of a different Soil and Scituation, the Northern parts being extreamly Mountainous, full of thick Woods, very barren, and thinly inhabited; yet are found to feed good Herds of Cattle, and to send forth several fresh Streams, the chief amongst which are the Tavye, Taff, Ogmore, Rumney, Elay, Nid or Neath, &c. and the Southern part, which is washed by the Severn Sea, and receiveth the said Rivers, is more upon a level, is very fertil both for Corn and feeding of great quantities of Sheep and Cattle, is well inhabited, and thick beset with Towns and Houses of the Gentry.
This County numbreth 118 Parish Churches, and hath the accommodation of 8 Market Towns.
Cardiff, the fairest Town in all South Wales, well seated on the River Tave, or Taff, over which it hath a fair Bridge, to which Vessels of small burthen do come to lade or unlade their goods; and in a rich and fertil Soil both for Tillage and Pasturage. It is a large and well built Town, with good ordered and clean Streets, containing within its Walls two Parishes, but hath but one Church; without the East-Gate is a large Suburb called Crockerton, without the North-Gate stands the White-Friers, and without the West-Gate a small Suburb adjoyning to the Black-Friers, and in this part is seated the Castle, which is a strong, spacious, and stately Building. It is a Town Corporate, governed by a Constable, 12 Aldermen, as many Capital Burgeffes, a Steward, Town-Clerk, with sub-Officers, enjoyeth several Immunities, electeth a Parliament man, is the place where the Assizes are kept; is well frequented and traded unto, its Inhabitants having a great intercourse of Traffick with Bristol, and its Markets on Wednesdays and Saturdays are very good, especially that on Saturdays, which is the best in the County, and very considerable for Gattle, Corn, Swine, Sheep, and all sorts of Provisions in great plenty, and at easie rates.
Llandaff, a City seated on the Taff, but of a small extent, scarce comparable to an indifferent Town, having not so much as a Market kept, which is occasioned by its vicinity to Cardiff. Its Cathedral is a spacious and superb Structure, and near adjoyning are the Ruins of an Old Castle, which was the ancient Palace of the Bishops.
Neath, seated on a River so called, over which it hath a Bridge, to which small Vessels come for the lading of Coals here had in great plenty to the profit of its Inhabitants. It is a Town of great antiquity, and of a good extent, yet is it indifferent large, is governed by a Port-Reve, and hath a good Market for Provisions.
Swansey, commodiously seated on the Sea-shoar, an ancient Port-Reve Town, which is large and well built, which for Riches and Trade is esteemed the chief in the County, and that by reason of their Coal-Pits, and the great industry of its Inhabitants. It hath weekly two Markets, on Wednesdays and Saturdays, which are very well frequented and traded unto, affording great plenty of Commodities and Provisions.
PEMBROKE-SHIRE, is of fertil Soil both for Tillage and Pasturage, is well stored with Cattle, and replenished with Rivers, which (with the Sea) plentifully serveth the Inhabitants with Fish and Fowl, and in the bowels of the Earth are plenty of Pit-Coal.
It is well inhabited and garnished with Towns, numbring 145 Parish Churches, and is traded unto by 8 Market Towns.
Pembrook, the chief Shire-Town, seated on the Eastern and innermost Creek of Milford-Haven, over which it hath two fair Bridges for the conveniency of passage. It is a place of good account, well frequented and inhabited by Gentlemen and Tradesmen, is much resorted unto by Shipping, by reason of which they have a Custom-house. It is a place of good strength, being fortified with a Wall, on which are several Towers, having three Gates for entrance, and also with a strong Castle seated on a Rock. It is a large Town Corporate containing two Parish Churches, is graced with well built Houses, is governed by a Major, with other sub-Officers, enjoyeth several Immunities, sendeth a Burgess to Parliament; and its Market, which is on Saturdays, is very good, and well served with Provisions, &c.
This Milford-Haven is esteemed the best in all England, not only for its largeness, being capacious enough to give entertainment to about 1000 Sail of Ships at one time, and to ride secure at a good distance one from the other; but also for its variety of deep and safe Creeks and nooked Bays for Ships to harbour in, having within it 13 Roads, 16 Creeks, and 5 Bays, all which are known by their several names.
St. Davids, seated within a mile of the Sea in a barren Soil, and very destitute of Wood. It was once a City of good account, but at present is very small, but thinly inhabited, and its Market disused; yet is it the See of a Bishop, and its Cathedral kept in good order, but the Bishops Palace is much ruinated.
Near unto St. Davids is a Promontory called St. Davids Land or Head, from whence in a clear day Ireland may be seen; and on the Rocks in these parts the Falcons have their Airies and breed. Also here is Whitesand-Bay, and at the extream point of the Promontory Ramsey Isle sheweth it self, nigh to which are several small ones, which together bear the name of the Bishop and his Clerks.
Haverford-West, a Town and County of it self, commodiously seated on the side of a Hill, and on a Creek of Milford-Haven, over which it hath a good Stone-Bridge which leadeth to Prendergast, where there is a Church. It is a very large and fair Town Corporate, containing three Parish Churches, is beautified with good Houses, is well inhabited, enjoyeth a good Trade, having several Vessels belonging to the Town; is the place where the Assizes are held, and the County Gaol kept, and hath weekly two Markets on Tuesdays and Saturdays, which are very great for Cattle and Provisions. It is governed by a Major, a Sheriff, and Common Council, with Justices of the Peace; it enjoyeth several Immunities, keeping Courts, and sending a Burgess to Parliament; and near to this Town divers Gentlemen have their Seats.
Tenby, seated on the Sea-shoar, where it hath a commodious Haven or Road for Ships, being formerly much frequented, especially by Fishermen, having a good Key, enjoyeth a considerable Trade, and its Inhabitants were wealthy; but the Spoils it suffered in the late Wars hath much impoverished it, notwithstanding it keeps its two Markets weekly, on Wednesdays and Saturdays, which are very well resorted unto for Corn, Provisions, and Fish.
Newport, seated near the Sea-shoar, and on the foot of a high Hill; a large, but ill built and inhabited Town, governed by a Port-Reeve and a Bailiff, and hath a good Market for Corn, Cattle, and Provisions; and here is a Wear for Fishing.
RADNOR-SHIRE. This County is of a sharp and piercing Air, and very ungraceful to the Husbandman, as being so Mountainous and Rocky; yet is it well watered with Rivers.
It hath but 52 Parish Churches, and is traded unto with three Market Towns.
New Radnor, well seated near the Spring-head of the Somergil, and in a pleasant Valley, at the foot of a profitable Hill for the feeding of Sheep and Cattle, called the Forrest of Radnor. It is a very ancient Town Corporate, whose Jurisdiction reacheth 10 or 12 miles in compass, is governed by a Bailiff and 25 Burgesses, enjoyeth large Immunities, and hath the election of a Parliament man. It had formerly a Market on Tuesdays, but now disused.
Prestaine, seated on the Lug, and in a pleasant and rich Vale, which from a small Village in former days, is now become a fair large and well built Town, with paved Streets, is well inhabited and frequented, where the Assizes are held, and the County Gaol kept; and its Market, which is on Saturdays, is very good for Provisions and Grain, especially Barly, of which they make good store of Mault.
Knighton, seated in a Valley, and on the Teme, over which it hath a Bridge; a very fair and well built Borough Town, of a good resort, whose Inhabitants enjoy a good Trade, and its Market on Tuesdays is very well served with Cattle, Corn, Provisions, Iron-ware, Hops, Salt, Linnen and Woollen, and other Commodities.
1695. Thesaurus geographicus a new body of geography by Abel Swall and Tim. Child.
WALES.
THAT the Inhabitants of WALES are the the Off-spring of the ancient Britains, who were possess'd of the greatest part of this Island before the coming over of the Saxons, we have shewn in the general Account of the several Inhabitants. The Severn was their Boundary on this side, for a long time; till the prevailing power of the Saxons, and of the Kings of England after the Conquest, oblig'd them to retire further Westward, and to seek shelter among the Mountains. Notwithstanding which, they still enjoy'd their own Laws, liv'd under their own Princes, and maintain'd their own Liberties against all the Designs and Attempts of the English. Till at last, in the year 1282. Llewellin ap Gryffith, Prince of Wales, lost both his Life and Principality to King Edward I. who yet did not think himself safe, notwithstanding his Victory seem'd entire and absolute. For he observ'd the humour of the Welch to be bitterly set against any foreign Prince or Governor, and was very hard put to it to settle himself in the secure possession of his new Conquests, till he enter'd upon this lucky Expedient. His Queen was then big with Child; so he sent for her immediately to come to Carnarvon, and when she was deliver'd of a Son, he summon'd a Meeting of the Welch Lords, and proffer'd them the young Child (a Native of their own) for their Lord and Governour. To him they readily swore Obedience; and since that time, the eldest Sons of the Kings of England have commonly been created Princes of Wales.
As to the present condition of this Principality; it is divided into South-Wales and North-Wales; from the situation of the several Branches. The Counties of Hereford and Monmouth (which formerly belong'd to it) are now lopp'd off, and reckon'd among those of England. The former of these we have already survey'd: The latter (as being disjointed in a manner by the Aestuary of Severn) we shall reserve to its proper place, in the Survey of these parts. Passing therefore by Herefordshire, the next County to the North-west, is
RADNORSHIRE.
THE County of Radnor, on the East and Southparts, is well cultivated and fruitful enough: The rest of it, tho' well water'd, is so very rugged and uneven, that the Plow can have no Employment there.
The chief Town is
Radnor, from whence the whole County take its name. Old Radnor (call'd from its high situation Pencraig) was laid in Ashes by Rhys ap Gruffydh in the Reign of King John. The new Town is well-built, for those parts; and was formerly defended with Walls and a Castle. It might have been much more considerable, had it escap'd the fury of the Rebellious Owen Glyndwr, who burnt it down. But a more immediate cause of its decay, seems to be the Encouragement that was afforded to its Neighbour Prestean (about 3 miles off) by Martin Lord Bishop of S. Davids; by whose favour it grew up to a considerable Market, and must by consequence draw off the Trade and Resort from Radnor.
The ancient Place in this County is
Magi, mention'd by Antoninus; which possibly we may soonest find about the place we have been just now describing. I mean, Old Radnor, call'd by the Britains Maesyved hen; for the middle-Age Writers call the Inhabitants of those parts Magesetae, as much as if one should say the Seat of the Magi; and the Distances on both sides will hit well enough.
The Thing most Remarkable, is
Offa's-dike, a mighty Work of it self, and much talkt of by our Historians. The name, it has from the Contriver of it, King Offa, who had it cast up as a Boundary between the English and Welch, and a Protection for the former against the Invasions of the latter. It runs through Herefordshire, so over a part of Shropshire into Mongomeryshire; then again into Shropshire, and so through Denbighshire into Flintshire; and ends a little below Holywell, where that Water empties it self into the Dee.
BRECKNOCKSHIRE.
THE County of Brecknock, on the South of Radnorshire, is of great extent, but very mountainous; tho' the pleasant and fruitful Vales (whereof they have a good number) make amends for this unsightly appearance.
The chief Town is
Brecknock, upon the River Ʋsk; which as it gives name to the whole County, so is it situated almost in the middle of it. The Roman Coins, which they discover hereabouts, are a Testimony, that it has been of some note among that People. I know not whether the Town began to flourish when Bernard Newmarch (who conquer'd this Country) built a stately Castle at it; which was afterwards repair'd by the Breoses and Bohuns. 'Tis certain, King Henry VIII. added much both to the honour and advantage of the place, when he constituted here a Collegiate-Church of 14 Prebendaries.
There are no Ancient Places that can probably be fix'd in this County; nor any Remarkables which properly fall under our Design.
MONMOUTHSHIRE.
THE County of Monmouth, among other Advantages is abundantly supply'd with Water; being bounded (as it were) on all sides with Rivers, and parted in the middle by the noble River of Ʋsk. The East-part abounds with Pastures and Woods; the Western-parts are a little Mountainous, but yet fruitful enough.
The chief Towns are,
- ...Monmouth,
- ...Chepstow.
Monmouth (situated between the Rivers Mynwy and Wye) is the chief Town of this County, and has been a place of note ever since the Conquest. For the Castle flourish'd in the time of the Conqueror, and seems to have been of great account in the civil Wars which hapn'd afterwards in this Kingdom. Insomuch, that the Town may seem in some measure to owe its growth to it; King Henry III. granting it large Privileges, after he had depriv'd John Baron of Monmouth of his Inheritance, either for espousing himself the Interest of the Barons, or because his Heirs had clos'd with the Earl of Bretagne. It glories in the Birth of two Persons, very much talk'd of in our Histories; one for his martial Atchievments, the other for his Learning and Knowledge in Antiquities. For here King Henry V. the Glory of England and Terror of France, had his first Breath; and here also was born the noted Jeffrey (call'd from hence de Monmouth) Author of the famous British History. The latter I am the rather inclin'd to reckon an Ornament to the place of his Nativity, because the Britains seem to value themselves and their Nation upon the Original he has given them, and are inclin'd to give more credit to his Relations, than their Neighbours are willing to allow them.
Chepstow, near the mouth of the River Wye, is of a pure Saxon original; which also intimates that it was a place of Trade and Commerce when that name was given it. The old Venta Silurum is about four miles from it; and some affirm, That it arose out of the Ruins of that ancient City: How truly, I know not. 'Tis at present, a Town of good note, secur'd by Walls of a considerable compass.
Ancient Places.
Venta Silurum, was the chief City of this People, and a large one it was for those times; the Ruins shewing about a mile in compass. As the Remains of Antiquity point out the place, so is the memory of it preserv'd in the present name of Caer-went, not far from Chepstow.
Gobannium is seated at the confluence of the River Wysk and Gavenni; from which confluence 'tis at this day call'd Aber-Gavenni.
Isca is plainly the River Ʋsk; and the Station call'd by Antoninus, Isca and Legio secunda is undoubtedly Kaer Lheion, call'd also by the Britains Kaer Lheon ar wysk, intimating as much as The City of the Legion upon the River Usk; from the Legio secunda Augusta which quarter'd there.
Burrium is plac'd by Antoninus 12 miles from Gobannium: 'Tis call'd at this day Brynbiga for Burenbegi (where the River Byrdhin falls into the Ʋsk) which name seems to retain something of the more ancient Denomination.
The Things most Remarkable in this County, are
The Chequer'd Pavements, which were discover'd about the ancient Venta Silurum or Kaer-Went in the year 1689. Upon taking them up, the Cement was dissolv'd; so that nothing but the cubical Stones of which they were compos'd, do now remain. The Stones, whereof these Pavements are made, are of several Colours; and by the Artifice of the Workman are form'd into several shapes of Men, Beasts, Cups, &c. or whatever else he pleas'd.
GLAMORGANSHIRE.
GLamorganshire is by some suppos'd to take that name from a certain Prince call'd Morgan; which is a Conjecture probable enough, considering how common the name is in this Country. But if we respect the situation of the County, we must rather fetch it from its relation to the Sea, or the Aestuary of Severn, upon which it is stretch'd out towards the South; for mor in their Language signifies the Sea.
The chief Towns are,
- ...Landaffe,
- ...Caerdiffe.
Landaffe is seated in a bottom upon the River Taf, from which and the Church there it takes the name: For Lhan in British signifies a Church. From this it derives its greatest Ornament and Reputation; being erected into a Bishop's See as early as the suppression of the Pelagian Heresy by Germanus and Lupus, the two Gallick Bishops.
Caerdiffe, considering it lies nearer the mouth of the same River, has greater advantage by the Harbour; and is a pretty neat Town.
Ancient Places.
Ratostibius is a corruption of the British Traeth Tav, which signifying the sandy frith of the River Tav, we need not give our selves any further trouble in enquiring after the position of this ancient place.
Bovium is Boverton, three miles from Cowbridge, a Market-town.
Nidum also points its situation by the present name.
Nedh, a Town of good note.
Leucarum is Loghor.
The Thing most Remarkable in this County, is
Caerphyli-castle, the noblest Ruins of ancient Architecture that we have in this whole Island; being larger than any Castle in England, except only Windsor. This seems to have been the Bullaeum Silurum; which being turn'd into British, is Caer-Vwl, and that must be express'd like Caer-Vyl or Caer-Vyli.
CAERMARTHENSHIRE.
THE County of Caermarthen, in British Kaer-Vyrdhin, bears good store of Corn, and abounds pretty much with Cattel: Besides which Advantage of the Soil, it yeilds in several places good plenty of Corn.
The chief Place is
Caermarthen, seated pleasantly upon the River Towy, among Woods and Meadows, whither Ships of small Burden are carry'd up. But the Sea has been a little unkind to it; having well-nigh stopp'd up the mouth of the River with a ridge of Sand. This Town has the honour of being the Birth-place of the famous Merlin, the British Prophet, so much talk'd of in ancient Story.
Ancient Places.
Tobius is manifestly the River Towy, which crosses this County from North to South, and empties it self into the Ocean a little below Kydweli.
Maridunum is very plainly Caermarthen, just now describ'd; especially, if we take the British name of the place, Caer-mardkin.
PENBROKESHIRE.
THE County of Penbroke (encompass'd with the Sea, except on the North and East-sides) is fertil enough in Corn; which is improv'd by the plenty of Marle and other fattening Materials they make use of, to enrich the Ground. They are likewise well stock'd with Cattel, and have good store of Coal for Fuel.
The chief Towns are,
- ...Penbroke,
- ...S. David's,
- ...Haverford-west,
- ...Tenbigh.
Penbroke (translated by Giraldus, The Cape, or Sea-Promontory) is seated in the Eastern-bay of Milford-haven. Arnulph de Montgomery built a Castle here in the time of Henry I. At present, 'tis a Corporation, and receives great Advantages from the Sea.
S. David's (seated in the utmost Promontory to the Westward) has its name from Dewi or David, a very religious Bishop, who translated the Archiepiscopal See from Caer-Leon to this place. This Honour it enjoy'd for a long time; till the Plague raging in those parts, the Dignity was translated to Dol in Little Britain, and never restor'd. Its nearness to the Sea has expos'd it very much to Pyrates; from whose barbarous Cruelties it has been a great Sufferer. So that, at present, 'tis but an inconsiderable City; shewing no Buildings of note, besides the Cathedral, the Bishop's Palace, and the Houses belonging to the several Members of the Church.
Haverford-west, is a Town of very good account and resort; being handsomly built and well-peopl'd, The uneveness of the Ground upon which it stands is a great Enemy to the beauty and uniformity of the Streets. 'Tis however a Corporation, and a County of it self.
Tenbigh, on the South-coast, is a handsom Town and well fortify'd with strong Walls. 'Tis much noted for its plenty of Fish, and is accordingly call'd in British Dinbech y Pyskod: It is also a Corporation.
The ancient Place on this Coast, is
Octopitarum Promontorium, which is that neck of Land, where S. David's stands, call'd in English S. David's Land.
Things Remarkable.
Milford-haven, for largeness and security, is perhaps out-done by no Harbour in Europe. For it has 16 Creeks, 5 Bays and 13 Roads.
In that little Tract, lying beyond Milford-haven, the Flemings were settl'd in the Reign of Henry I. Whose Posterity to this day are manifestly distinguish'd from their Neighbour-Welch, in Language and Customs, in both which they come so near the English, that the Tract it self is call'd Little England beyond Wales.
CARDIGANSHIRE.
THE County of Cardigan, on the West and Southsides, is an even champain Country; but on the North and East is taken up with a continu'd ridge of Mountains, which yet afford good Pasture for Cattel, and have in the Valleys underneath several large Lakes.
The chief Towns are,
- ...Cardigan,
- ...Aber-ystwyth.
Cardigan (seated near the mouth of the River Teivi, and therefore call'd by the Britains Aber-Teivi) is the chief Town in this County, from whence the whole is denominated. It was fortify'd by Gilbert Son of Richard Clare; but being afterwards treasonably surrender'd, was laid waste by Rhys ap Gryffydh.
Aber-ystwyth is seated at the mouth of the River Ystwyth; from which position it has the name. The same Gilbert Clare who fortify'd Cardigan, did also wall this Town; which by Mr. Camden is call'd the most populous Town in the whole County. Whether the condition of it be chang'd since his time, I know not.
Ancient Places.
Tuerobius, mention'd by Ptolemy, can be no other than the River Teivi; the old name seeming to have been moulded from the British Dwr Teivi, which is as much as the Water of Teivi.
Stuccia is another River in those parts, to which Ystwyth seems to lay the best claim.
Lovantium or Lovantinum may probably be Lhannia in the Parish of Lhan Dhewi Brevi; where they meet with Inscriptions, Coins and other indubitable marks of Antiquity.
The most remarkable Thing in this County, is
The noble Lead-Mine discover'd in the year, 1690. in the Grounds of Sir Carbury Pryse, Baronet. 'Tis said, the Ore was so nigh the Surface of the Earth, that the Moss and Grass did but just cover it in some places.
MONTGOMERYSHIRE.
THE County of Montgomery is a mountainons Tract; notwithstanding which, by reason of an agreeable mixture of fruitful Vales, it affords both good Pasture and arable Lands. Giraldus has told us, That 'twas formerly very eminent for Horses, stately and exceeding swift.
The Towns more considerable are,
- ...Montgomery,
- ...Lhan Vyllyn.
Montgomery is the chief Town of the County, so call'd from Roger Montgomery Earl of Shrewsbury, to whom it belong'd. In the same manner as the Welch call it Tre' Valdwin from that Baldwin (Lieutenant of the Marches in the Conqueror's time,) who built it. In the year 1095. it was destroy'd by the Welch, but rebuilt by Henry III. to whom they owe several Liberties and Immunities.
Lhan Vyllyn is a Market-town of considerable note, incorporated in the time of Edward II. It is at present govern'd by 2 Bailiffs, to whom King Charles II. (among other Privileges) granted the Honour and Authority of Justices of Peace within the Corporation, during the time of their Office, which lasts for one year.
Ancient Places.
Maglona seems to have some Remains in the present Machynlheth, at the utmost Limit of this County Westward.
Mediolanum is, by Dr. Powel and a late judicious Author, suppos'd to be Meirod (about a mile below Mathraval) where several remarkable Monuments have been discover'd.
MEIRIONYDSHIRE.
MEirionydshire, in Latin Mervinia, is so violently beat upon by the Sea, that some imagine part of it to have been wash'd away by the Violence of the Waves. 'Tis the most mountainous Country in all Wales; which is the reason why the Inhabitants apply themselves wholly to Grazing, and live upon Butter, Cheese, &c. And indeed, 'tis an incredible number of Sheep, &c. that graze upon the Mountains in these parts. This figure of the Country, and their way of Living, may possibly be the reason why they have so few Towns, and none of any great note; unless we may reckon
Dol Gelheu, a small Market-town, and
Bala, the chief Market of the Mountaineers in the East-part of the County.
Things Remarkable.
Kader-Idris is one of the highest Mountains in all Britain; and as an Argument of it affords a variety of Alpine Plants.
Near the Castle of Harlech, was dug up (An. 1692.) a golden Torques; being a wreath'd bar of Gold, or else 3 or 4 Rods jointly twisted, about 4 foot long. 'Tis now in the Hands of Sir Roger Mastyn, Baronet.
In this Country, they have been very much troubled of late with an unaccountable sort of Exhalation, which has fir'd several Ricks of Hay, and has poyson'd the Grass to that degree as to cause a mortality among most sorts of Cattle. A full description is given of it in Mr. Camden's Britannia, English, pag. 659, 660, &c.
CAERNARVONSHIRE.
TH• County of Caernarvon, in the maritime parts, is pretty fruitful and well-inhabited; but more inward, is so encumber'd with vast Mountains and dismal Rocks, that these (if any) may very well claim the name of the British Alps.
The chief Towns are,
- ...Caernarvon,
- ...Bangor,
- ...Conwy.
Caernarvon, wash'd by the Sea on the North and West-sides, tho' it gives name to the whole County, is yet of no higher Antiquity than the times of K. Edward I. For this Prince they own for their Founder; and value themselves very highly upon giving Birth to his Son Edward II. call'd from thence Edward of Caernarvon, who was the first Prince of Wales of English Extraction. The Buildings are decent enough, and the Inhabitants civil and courteous.
Bangor, 7 miles from Caernarvon, was formerly a place so large and considerable, as to merit the name of Bangor vawr: But 'tis now only a small Town, and derives all its Reputation from the Bishop's See, the Cathedral whereof is not very fine, having been burnt down by that profligate Rebel Owen Glendor.
Aber-Conwy, i. e. the mouth of the River Conwy, was built out of the Ruins of the ancient Conovium by King Edward II. and by its advantagious situation and other conveniences, is grown into a handsom Town.
Ancient Places.
Canganum is the Promontory of Lhyn (running out to the South-west) which would tempt one to imagine that Langanum, as some of Ptolemy's Copies have it, is the true Reading.
Segontium is the Mother of the present Caernarvon, and seems to have first taken its name from the River Seiont, which runs that way into the Sea.
Conovius, is undoubtedly the River Conwy; as Conovium (which had that name from the River) is Aber-Conwy.
Dictum is suppos'd to be the ancient City Diganwy, which took that name from the River Conwy; but was consum'd by Lightning many Ages since.
Things Remarkable.
Snowdon-hills are the highest ridge of that range of Mountains which takes up the inner parts of this County. The name it has from Snow, which you commonly see here about the latter end of June, but not the year round, as some Authors have suggested.
Pen-maen-mawr, is a perpendicular Rock, through which the Road lies, not without great difficulty and terror to Travellers. For on one side, you would think the Rocks ready to crush you; on the other the Sea and the Precipice down to it, are so frightful and dangerous withal, that a false Step is of very ill consequence, and to come off safe requires some care.
ANGLESEY.
THE Isle of Anglesey is separated from the Continent of Britain by the narrow Frith of Meneu, being about 24 miles in breadth, and in length some few more. By the Ancients it was call'd Mona, the Seat of the Druids; and was first attempted by Suetonius Paulinus, but conquer'd by Julius Agricola; as we learn at large from Tacitus. Many Ages after, the English conquer'd it; whereupon it was call'd Anglesey, i. e. the Isle of the English, or the English Island.
The chief Town in it is
Beaumaris, built on the East-side; which (among other Towns in these parts) owns King Edward I. for its Founder. It is grown into a place of good Note and Wealth.
DANBIGHSHIRE.
THE County of Denbigh, according to the several parts, has a different Soil: In the West 'tis somewhat barren; in the middle, an exceeding fruitful Vale; and in the East, not quite so fertil; tho' much better towards the River Dee.
The chief Town is
Denbigh, which is remov'd from the place of its first Foundation. For it was seated upon a steep Rock; from whence the Inhabitants (either because the declivity of the place was inconvenient, or else for want of a due supply of Water) began in after-Ages to remove to the bottom of the Hill; where a handsom large Town is sprung up by degrees.
The ancient Town in this County, is
Leonis castrum (possibly from the Legio Vicesima Victrix) call'd, as is suppos'd at this day, by the more modern name of Holt, upon the River Dee.
FLINTSHIRE.
FLintshire is so call'd from Flint-castle, which was begun by Henry II. and finish'd by Edward I. The Form of the County is oblong, and but small. It consists of a mixture of gentle Hills and Plains, which produce Corn in great abundance.
The chief Town is
S. Asaph (at the confluence of the Cluid and Elwy) so call'd from the Patron of the place, a holy and devout Person. It owes its reputation to Religion; having neither Neatness nor Wealth to recommend it. For about the year 560. Kentigern Bishop of Glascow settl'd here a Bishop's Seat, and a Monastery consisting of •63 Monks. The Bishop of the Diocess has under his Jurisdiction, about 128 Parishes.
The ancient Place in this County, is
Va•is, which Mr. Camden has plac'd in the Confines of Flintshire and Denbighshire, at a place call'd to this day B•d-Vari.
Things Remarkable.
Holy-well, near Basingwerk, derives its sanctity from the Memory of S. Winifrid, a Christian Virgin: A fabulous Story, which Dr. Powel thinks is owing to the Forgery of the Monks of Basingwerk, who would probably magnify the Vertues of it for their own advantage. A little Brook runs out of the Well with such a violent course, as to be able, immediately almost, to turn a Mill.
In the Parish of Mold, upon the sinking new Coalpits, they have met with Leaves of Plants so exactly delineated in a sort of black Slat, that 'tis almost impossible for any Artist to represent them so compleatly, unless he take the Impression from the Life in some fine Paste or Clay. The Figure and Descriptions of them, are exhibited at large in the new Edition of Camden's Britannia.
The ISLE of MAN.
BEtween Britain and Ireland, there is stretch'd out a considerable Island from North to South, about 30 Italian miles in length; but, where widest, not above 15 in breadth. The several ancient Writers have given it several names: By Caesar 'tis call'd Mona; by Ptolemy, Monoeda; by Pliny, Monabia: And the same variety appears in such of our modern Authors, as make mention of it. It was first inhabited by the Britains, and then by the Scots. Many years after, the Norwegians got possession of it, and held it for a long time: Till at last, after several Revolutions, it fell into the Hands of the English about the latter end of Edward I. or the beginning of Edward II. and has ever since continu'd under their Jurisdiction. It has had several Lords; such generally, as had the deepest Interest in our Princes: Till the Grant hereof, together with the Patronage of the Bishoprick, was made to Sir John Stanley and his Heirs by King Henry IV. in which Family it has ever since remain'd.
The Soil is very fruitful, and produces such store of Barly, Wheat, Rye and Oats, as does not only furnish the necessary uses of the Island, but likewise gives leave for the Exportation of good quantities. According to the distinction of North and South it is different: In the first, 'tis healthy and gravelly; in the second, they have good Meadow and Pasture-Ground. The Air is very wholsom (the Plague having never been known to be in the Island) so that the Inhabitants ordinarily live till fourscore. The People are call'd Manks-men, and their Language Manks. The common People live in little Huts, and are very abstemious in their Diet. The Gentry are but few; those they have, are very civil and courteous, and live in Houses of the English fashion.
The Execution of Justice is manag'd with all the speed and easiness imaginable. 'Tis true, their Sheeding-Courts (the same with our Terms) meet but twice a year; but they have a Court of Chancery (wherein the Governor is sole Judge) which he may hold once every Week, if there be occasion. Every Man pleads his owe Cause; without Lawyers, Proctors or Attornies; and they are dispatch'd (whether they be matters Spiritual or Temporal) without the expence of one Farthing.
The great Officers of the Island, are 1. the Governour, who under the Lord, has the entire Command of the Island. 2. The two Deemsters, who are their judges in matters Civil and Criminal. 3. The Comptroller, who calls the Receiver General to an Account. And, 4. The Receiver General, who receives all the Rents (due to the Lord) from the inferiour Collectors.
Their way of Trading, is pretty peculiar. They chuse 4 Merchants to buy all their foreign Commodities, for the use of the whole Island; and these are sworn to the true and faithful discharge of their Trust. Whatsoever Bargain they make with the Vessels that come in, the Island is bound to stand to; and the Inhabitants, in Exchange, bring in their native Commodities, Wool, Hides, Tallow, &c. in lieu whereof they are to have a proportionable share of the imported Wares, They had no Mony before the late Civil Wars; when several of the loyal Party flying thither, supply'd the Island so abundantly, that the Tenant was able to pay his Rent to Co•n, which he us'd to do in Sheep, Hogs, &c.
As to the Ecclesiastical State: The Bishoprick is under the jurisdiction of the Archbishop of York. The Bishop has no voice in the House of Lords; but in the Lower House of Convocation is allow'd to sit upermost. The Clergy are generally Natives, and have a very good Allowance. The Parishes are 17; every Church whereof bears the Name of some Saint or other, to whom it was formerly dedicated.
The principal Towns are,
- ...Castle-town,
- ...Duglas,
- ...Peel.
Castle-town, so call'd from a Castle and Garison there, is seated on the North-side of the Island; and is call'd otherwise, Russin. Here, within a little Isle, was erected a Bishop's See, which had formerly jurisdiction over the Hebrid•s, but is now limited to the Isle of Man. This is the Metropolis of the whole Island.
Duglas has the best Harbour, and is most frequented by the foreign Traders, who bring over their Bay-Salt, and carry back Leather, Wool and Salt-beef. The Houses both here and at Castle-town, are very uniform; and (which is of no great standing in this Island) three Stories high: They are cover'd also with Tiles instead of Thatch.
Peel is very eminent for its Castle, being the second Fortress in the whole Island, and the common Prison for all Offenders. 'Tis strongly fortify'd both by the Sea, and also by Walls and Rampires.