Genoa, Province

Sources from old books

1635. Historia mundi: or Mercator's atlas. London. by Gerhard Mercator.

THe Dukedome of the Genuensians, or the Country of Genoa was heretofore called Liguria, yet not all but that part, which was beyond the Alpes. There are divers opinions concerning the name of Liguria. Some, among whom is Paulus •iaconus, doe report that it was so called ab legendis Leguminibus from gathering of Pulse: some from Ligo one of the fabulous Captaines of Iapetus, and Berosus, Caro, Fabius Pictor, and Semprocius suppose that it was so named from Ligures the Sonne of Aegiptian Phaeton: Now it is commonly calld Riviera de Ge∣noa, from Genua a famous Cittie. It is bounderd on the West with the Alpes which divide Gallia Narbonensis from Italie: on the East with E∣truria and Macra or Marga which floweth betweene them: on the South it is beaten with the Ligurian Sea: on the North it is enclosed with the Apennine. This Country as Strionnius writeth, was hereto∣fore barren, and had nothing in it worthy of memory, but that it had great vast Trees, fit for building of Ships. But now it yeeldeth good store of Wine, Oyle, and other fruits. The Country Dianus doth so abound with Oyle, that sometimes it maketh 18. sometimes 20000. Jarres, which they commonly call Barilas. Genoa is now twofold: the Easterne, and the Westerne, which from the Metropolis, which stan∣deth in the middle of them both, is called Riviera di Genova, di Ponente, & de Levante. Livie and others call the chiefe Citty Genua, Stephanus calleth it Genoa, and Luitprandius Ticinensis, and the Writers of his age, Ianua; it is now called Genoa and Genova, concerning the situation. It fronteth on Meridium, and the Iland Cirnus, the banke of it is opposite to the North, and so it hath a gentle descent into a Plaine, being sea∣ted at the foote of the Mountaines, and behind a Trench or Bulwark doth keepe off the cold Northward, having neither a Moutainous Si∣tuation nor a plaine, but of a mixt kinde. The Compasse of it is 35955. foote, as the Bishop Nebianus reporteth. So that if we allow 7. foote to a pace, the measure of the whole Citty will be 5. miles, but if wee allow 6. foote, then neither the Bulwarke nor the Haven can come within this compasse or dimension. It hath a faire Haven which lyeth to the South and Southwest, which affoordeth safe harborage for Shipping. But concerning Genoa there are these smooth Verses of Scaligers extent, in English thus.

The Asian wealth, and Easterne honours great,And all that Land the Euxine Sea doth beate,The Pisanian Armies, and the youth of worth,And the French Colours I alone drew forth.The subdued Alpes I held and kept in awe,And Affrick trembled when my Ships it sawe.And the Venetian hath fled from the shotWhich in my Haven he hath found too hot.O France you are deceived much, and SpaineIn your attempts, you take up armes in vaine,I conquer being conquerd, for if I obtaineVictory, or lose it, I am still the same.

Having viewed the Metropolis, wee will shew some of the other Townes and Citties. Not farre from Varus is that which Ptolemy calls Nicaea. Antoninus Nicia, and now Nizza. It is a Sea Towne, built heretofore by the Massilians, and seated behinde the Alpes, partly on the Cliffes, and partly on plaine ground. Now it is strong, having a well-fortified Castle, and it is subject to the Prince of Sabaudia. A mile farther above the Port or Haven of Hercules Monaecus, Torbis, or Turbias is seated on the high Mountaines. There are also the Townes of D. Remi, or S. Remo, seated in a pleasant fertile soyle, and wonder∣fully terrified and adorned with Citterne-trees, Palme-trees, Lem∣mon-trees, and others. Castellum Tabia is but a little Towne, but fa∣mous for good rich Appian Wines. Albigaunum is an ancient Citty, seated in a Plaine, 500. paces from the Sea, which hath an ill ayre, but very rich, and abounding with all things necessary. Finarium also, or Naulum. Savona is an ancient Citty, adorned with many magnifi∣cent buildings, and the compasse of it is 1500. paces. These Citties are on the Westerne side of Genoa: on the East side there are Clave∣rium, Sestri di Levanto, and others. The Rivers here are Varus which devideth Province from Liguria, the latter being a Country of Italy, the former of France. This River on the Westerne banke thereof which is toward France, receiveth those Rivers which are commonly called in French Caremp, Lavaire, and Esteron: on the Westerne banke toward Italy, it receiveth the Rivers La Lince & La Vesubie. There are also by the Coasts of Liguria Paulon, now called Pulion: Rutuba now called R•tta. There are also Merula, Porzevera, Ferisano, Lavagna, Maera, now called Magra. Concerning the Ecclesiastick government you may read in Mercators Table: the Bishop of Taurinium, under whom are the Bishops Casalensis, Salutiarum, Montis Regalis, Novariensis, Lodensis, Vercellensis, Ipporegiensis, Actensis, Aquensis, Albensis, Terdonensis, Saonensis, Albingaunensis, Vintimeliensis, Placentinus, & Papiensis, are subject to the Archbishop of M•diolanum. There are under the Archbishop of Genoa, the Bishop Bobiensis, Aprumacensis, or Brumacensis, Metenensis, or Maranensis, Acoiensis, or Ampruniacensis, Nubiensis, in Corsica, or Nebien∣sis, Naulensis, Albigaunensis, or of Arbenga, which is reckoned among the Suffragans to the Archbishop of Mediolanum.

THe Dukedome of Genoa which stretcheth forth to the Ligustick Sea, belongeth properly to the Transalpine Liguria. The Metropolis of it is the Citty Genoa, the o∣ther part is devided into the Easterne and Westerne. The bounds of the former is the Lunensian Haven, of the latter the Haven of Monaecus: This Country hath a rude stony soyle, so that it bringeth forth nothing but that which is forced out of the Earth with great paines. It was heretofore cover'd over with woods, having a few Husbandmen, who did live rather by robberies than tillage. Strabo the Geogr. Lib. 4. writeth thus concerning L•g••a. Qui Liguriam habitant, ut plu•imum ex pecore victum agi•••t, 〈…〉 potione, maritimis ex locis ac montanis pastum quae names. That is those which inhabit Liguria live for the most part on Ca•tle, their drinke is Milke, and a kinde of drinke made of Barley, they get their food on the Sea-shore and on the Mountaines. These Mountaines afoord good Timber for building of Ships, and great Trees, which 〈◊〉 so thick that the Diameter of some of them is 8. foote. The 〈◊〉 were heretofore a very warlike People, who put the Romans to much trouble, and at last could hardly be subdued. Whence Liv•• calleth them, Durum in armis genus, a People hardy in the Warres, and Virgil saith, Assu•tumque malo Ligurem, the Ligurian is inured to trouble.

Genua the Mistresse of Liguria is supposed to be the ancientest Citty of Italie, and that it was built by Ianus, whom some suppose to be Noah, others conjecture that it was so named from Genuus the Sonne of King Saturne. Paulus Perusinus delivers that Genuinus an Egyptian and one of Phaethons Companions who lay sicke here, after he had recovered his health call'd it after his owne name Genua. Others devise other Fables, but it is the famousest Mart-towne of Liguria, and it hath i•creased much within these 400. yeeres, and now it is very strong & much fea∣red. The Territories of this Citty did reach heretofore even to the River Tanais. It had under it Theodosia a Citty of Taur••a hers•nesus, which is now called Caffa, as also Cyprus, Lesbus, Chius, which are Ilands in the Mediterranean Sea, and Pera a Citty of Thrace. It contended long time with the Venetians concerning the Dominion and Empire of the Sea. In this Citty there are 28. Patrician Families, out of which a Counsell of 400. men is chosen, and the Duke is President thereof. It began to be established at Gen•a in imitation of the Ve∣netian Common-wealth about the yeere 1237. but afterward being much troubled with the factions and discords of the Citizens, and being enforced to obey forraine Lords, as the Mediolanians, French∣men, and Spaniards, it lost much of her former power and authority▪ and being now subject, it enjoyeth rather an imaginary than a free Common-wealth. But to conclude, referring the Reader that desi∣reth to know more, to Bracelius, Bizarus, Aug. Iustinianus, Fr. Leander Albertus, I thinke it fitt to set downe Scaligers Verses.

The Asian wealth or Easterne honours great,And all that Land the Euxine Sea doth beate.The Pisanian Armies, and the youth of worth,And the French Colours I alone drew forth.The subdued Alpes I held, and kept in awe,And Affrick trembled when my Ships it sawe,And the Venetian hath fled from the shotWhich in my Haven he hath found too hot.O France you are deceived much, and Spaine,In your attempts, you take up armes in vaine:I conquer if conquerd, for if I obtaineVictory, or lose it, I am still the same.

1695. Thesaurus geographicus a new body of geography by Abel Swall and Tim. Child.

THE Coasts of GENOA are extended from the River Var, that separates Provence, in France, from Italy, as far as the Magra, containing in Length, from East to West (setting aside Nice) about 155 Miles; in Breadth, from North to South, in the widest part, 30 Miles, and in many Places not above 10 Miles; and bounds them on the Eastern and Western sides, as the Dutchies of Montferrat, Milan and Parma serve as their Limits on the North, and the Sea on the South. On these wide Coasts are built many Towns subject to the Jurisdiction of divers Sovereigns, and others that appertain to the Republick of Genoa. The Country answers, in part, to that of the Ancient Ligurians, who dispersed themselves in Colonies as far as the Rivers Po and Arno: But at present, the Territories of this State are divided into the Eastern and Western Rivers, of which the City of Genoa, seated in the midst, is the proper Boundary. The Western Coasts bring forth abundance of Orange, Citron, Palm and Cedar Trees, together with excellent Vines: The Eastern is not so fruitful; and the Middle of the Country is rugged, full of Hills, and affords little Profit. But the Division thereof may be more distinctly perceiv'd by the ensuing Table.

The Coasts of GENOA

• 1. Part of the Coasts of Genoa, subject to divers Sovereigns,
  • NICE, Coun. and Bish. appertaining to the Duke of Savoy.
  • Ville-Francha, Port, appertaining to the Duke of Savoy.
  • Donas, Vil. appertaining to the Duke of Savoy.
  • Maro, Marq. appertaining to the Duke of Savoy.
  • Monaco, Princ. to the Prince of Monaco.
  • Final, Marq. to the King of Spain.
• 2. The Western Coasts,
  • St. Remo, Port.
  • Vintimiglia, Bish.
  • Albenga, Bish.
  • Noli, Bish.
  • Savona, Bish.
  • GENOA, Archb. Cap. Port.
• 3. The Eastern Coasts,
  • Sarzana, Bish.
  • Brugneto, Bish.
  • ...Rapallo.
  • La Vegna.
  • La Spezza.
  • ...Torreglia.

NICE, Nicaea, or Nicia, Ital. Nizza, is situated in a very fruitful Plain at the foot of the Alpes, and on the Sea-shore, at the distance only of 2 Miles from the mouth of the River Var, 68 South of Pignerol, 78 almost South of Turin, 72 East of Ambrun, 100 East of Aix, and as many West of Genoa. It sprang up out of the Ruins of Cemeleneum, or Cimella, and was built by the Inhabitants of Marselle, taking its Name, which signifies Victory, from the Conquest which those People, who had establish'd divers Colonies in those Parts, gain'd over the Ligurians. The Episcopal See, under the Metropolitan of Ambrun, was in like manner translated from Cimella to Nice, which is also the Metropolis of a County of the same Name. This City is great, splendid and populous, having a Cathedral, three Parishes, one College, and several Religious Houses, and much enrich'd by Traffick, being adorn'd with a capacious Harbour, and defended with one of the strongest Castles throughout Europe. Moreover, the Amphitheatre, Inscriptions, and other remarkable Monuments as yet to be seen therein, are a sufficient Testimony of its Antiquity. Pope Paul III. came thither, A. D. 1558. and an Interview was held in the same Place by His Holiness, the Emperor Charles V. and Francis I. King of France; whereupon a Teaty of Truce for 10 Years was concluded between these Two Princes.

The City of Nice was heretofore subject to the Kings of Burgundy, and afterward to the Counts of Provence, whence it was commonly call'd Nice de la Provence; but at length it fell into the Hands of the Dukes of Savoy, about A. D. 1365. and hath ever since remain'd in their Possession, together with the adjacent Province, or County, which is usually divided into 4 Vicariates, viz. those of Nice, Barcelona, Sospello, and Puerino. The Counties of Boglio and Tenda, do likewise depend on its Jurisdiction. The Place was taken by the French, from the Duke of Savoy, in the Year 1691.

Ville-Franca, Villa-Franca, or Olivula, had its station within the Limits of the County of Nice, in the midst, between Monaco to the East, and the City of Nice to the West, being 3 Miles East of Nice, and above 5 West of Monaco. This Sea-Port Town was built, A. D. 1295. at the special Command of Charles II. of Anjou, King of Sicily, and Count of Provence; and afterward a very strong Fort was added thereto, by the Order of Emanuel Philibert, Du•e of Savoy, who left it as an Inheritance to his Successors. The Place was taken by the French, in 1691. at the same time that Nice was.

Monaco, Monaecium, or Herculis Monaeci portus, corruptly call'd Mourgues by the Provencians, is a small Principality lying between the County of Nice and the Dominions of the State of Genoa, consisting only of 3 Places of no large Extent, viz. Monaco the Capital, Roccabruna, and Menton. The Town of Monaco is distant above 5 Miles from Nice, toward Albenga, and remains under the Government of its proper Princes, of the Family of Grimaldi, who having expell'd the Spaniards, A. D. 1641. were oblig'd to seek for the Protection of the French King, and constantly to entertain a Garrison of his Soldiers. The House of Grimaldi is one of the most Illustrious of Italy, and is divided into many Branches, that have obtain'd the Principalities of Salerno, Gieraci, and St. Catherine, together with the Dutchies of Euboli and Terranova. Indeed, Monaco is a small Town, but almost inaccessible, having a safe Harbour, and being defended with a strong old Castle founded on a Rock, and washed by the Waves of the Sea.

Final, Finalium, or Finarium, stands in the midst between Savona to the East, and Albenga to the West, on the Coasts of Genoa, and is dignified with the Title of a Marquisate, which is extended along the Sea-shore only for the space of 2 Leagues, where it hath two Points of Rocks for its Bounds The Town is Walled, and hath for its Defence a strong Castle, flank'd with 4 Towers, and erected on the top of a Mountain, the Avenues whereof are guarded with 2 Forts. At the distance of 1 Mile from hence is situated a Burrough call'd La Marina di Finale, which is in like manner fenced with 2 high Fortresses. This Sovereignty hath for a long time appertain'd to the House of Caneto, but the Spaniards surpriz'd the Town in 1602. and caus'd the last Marquis of that Family to be put to Death, to secure their Possession. It stands 37 Miles South-East of Coni, 40 nigh West of Genoa, and 60 almost South of Turin and Casal.

Maro, Marium, is a Town of a Marquisate and Valley of the same Name, on the Coasts of Genoa, appertaining to the Jurisdiction of the Duke of Savoy.

S. Remo, Fanum S. Remul, or Remigli, a considerable Town and Port, is seated on the Coasts of Genoa, being distant about 11 or 12 Leagues from Nice, and 5 from Monaco to the East, between Vintimiglia and Oniglia. The adjacent Country is extremely fruitful of Oranges, Citrons and Olives.

Vintimiglia, Vintemelium, Albium Intimelium, or Albintemelium, is in like manner situated on the Sea-shore, on the Frontiers of the Dutchy of Savoy, and the County of Nice, at the distance of 17 Miles East of Nice, 40 South of Coni, and 48 nigh West of Genoa. It is the Seat of a Prelate suffragan to the Archbishop of Milan, and hath been subject to the Dominion of the Genoeses ever since the Year 1238. The Town is but of a small Compass; nevertheless, it is fortified with a strong Castle standing on a Hill, the foot whereof is water'd with the Streams of the little River La Rotta, which here dischargeth it self into the Sea.

Albenga, Albingannum, is an ancient and large City, but not very populous, by reason of the unwholsomness of the Air, being distant 10 Miles North-East of Oneglio, and almost 52 West of Genoa. It was erected into an Episcopal See, under the Metropolitan of Genoa, by Pope Alexander III. A.D. 1179. and hath a very commodious Haven. Over-against this Place lies a small Island, or rather a Rock, commonly call'd l Isoletta di Albenga, and was heretofore known by the Name of Gallineria.

Noli, Naulum, or Naulium, is built in a verdant Plain, on the Western Coasts of Genoa, but destiute of an Harbour; between Savona to the North-East, and Albenga to the South-West; being about 1 Mile East of Final, and 35 West of Genoa. This small City, the Episcopal See whereof is subject to the Metropolitan of Genoa, was, in time past, the Capital of a peculiar Lordship, but at present is united to the Dominions of that Republick.

Savona, or Savo, stands on the Mediterranean, almost 15 Miles East of Final, 24 West of Genoa, and 22 from Acqui to the South. A Bishop's See, under the Metropolitan of Milan, hath been long since establish'd in this City, which is the Second of the State of Genoa, whereto it hath formerly given some cause of Jealousie, when favour'd by Francis I. King of France; insomuch that the Genoeses stopt up the Harbour, altho' it was one of the most commodious of these Coasts: It was a very populous City; and here are also to be seen divers stately Churches, 5 Gates, 2 Fortresses, and a Citadel. Moreover, Savona hath been the Place of Nativity of Three several Popes, viz. Gregory VII. Julius II. and Sixtus IV.

GENOA, Genua, Ital. Genoua, the Metropolis of the Republick, situated on the Coasts of the Mediterranean Sea, is the most famous City of Italy for Traffick; and the Seat of an Archbishop, erected by Innocent II. A. D. 1132. It is extended in compass for the space of 2 Leagues, rising up on an •ill with a gentle Ascent, in form of a Theatre. Its tall Streets, rising by degrees from the Sea, make the noblest Prospect in the World. It has about 17200 Houses, and is well fortify'd with firm Ramparts, strong Walls, and 5 Gates toward the Land, on which are planted divers pieces of Artillery. The Port is no longer dangerous, since it hath been shut up with a large Mole 600 Paces in length, over against which, a Promontory runs out, whereto is join'd another Mole of 500 Paces, which scarce is to be parallel'd, and a Watch-Tower of curious Workmanship, commonly call'd La Lanterna, where a very strong Castle formerly stood, but is now demolish'd. Here are a great Number of stately Edifices, among which, the Palace of Doria is more-especially remarkable, reaching from the Sea-shore to the top of a Mountain; the Apartments thereof are very regular and spacious, the Furniture very rich, and every thing therein appears extremely magnificent. Moreover, the Palace of the Signiory, where the Doge keeps his Court, that of the Casa del Imperial, the Arsenal, the Dome, or Cathedral Church of St. Lawrence, in which is to be seen a Plate made of a single Emerald; the Annunciado, the Church of the Jesuits, dedicated to St. Ambrose; and that of St. Cyrus, appertaining to the Theatines, are very much admir'd by Travellers. The old Streets in the midst of the Town are narrow and dark; but the others lately built are very broad and fair, especially that call'd the New-Street, which consists altogether of Palaces, and noble Piles of Building; insomuch, that it is not to be admir'd that Genoa hath acquir'd the Title of The Proud.

The Inhabitants are skilful in Maritim Affairs, and have signaliz'd their Valour on divers Occasions. They are very much addicted to Merchandizing, and Persons of Quality are allowed to drive an Wholesale Trade without any derogation to their Honour, as well as throughout all the other Provinces of Italy. It is reported, That there are above 20000 Families in this City, that gain a competent Livelyhood by making Stuffs, and Silk-Stockings. The State maintains a great number of Vessells and Galleys; and private Citizens are permitted to set many out to Sea for their own proper Advantage. Here are two sorts of Noblemen, viz. Some descended of an ancient Stock, and others newly created: the first of these are distinguished in 28 Families, whereof 4 are the principal; that is to say, those of Grimaldi, Fiesque, Doria, and Spinola: Among these there are several Lords so Rich and Potent, that 'tis dangerous to admit them to a share in the Government, lest they should tyrannically usurp it. This City must be very populous; for in one Plague they lost 80000 Souls: but in the Year 1684. the Bombarding this Place did a great deal of Mischief; this being the first City that had the Maidenhead of Bombs. This City is of very great Antiquity, mention having been made of it in History above 1800 Years agoe: The Romans subdued it among many other considerable Places, afterward the Lombards made themselves Masters thereof; and the Emperors of Germany have for some time since retain'd it in their Possession. Nevertheless, we do not find any memorable Transactions of its State recorded until the Year 1099. The French have found means to seize on the City of Genoa 7 several times; and it is probable, that so many Revolutions have not happen'd in any other Place throughout the World. And indeed, it hath been observ'd, that from the Year 1494. unto 1528. 12 different sorts of Governments have been establish'd therein: For the supreme Magistrates were 1. Counts or Earls; 2. Consuls; 3. Podesta's; 4. Captains; 5. Governours; 6 Lieutenants; 7. Rectors of the People; 8. Abbots of the People; 9. Reformers; 10. Noble Dukes; 11. Popular Dukes; and 12. Aristocratical States, whose Authority as yet continues; and the Chief of whom is called the Doge or Duke, who exerciseth the Functions of his Offices only for the space of Two Years.

However, the Genoeses have contributed much to the maintaining of the Wars against the Infidels, and have taken from them the Kingdoms of Corsica, Sardignia, and Cyprus, together with the Isles of Metelin and Chio, and the Towns of Caffa and Pera. The City of Genoa hath also brought forth divers Illustrious Personages, particularly 3 or 4 Popes, and that renowned Navigator Christophorus Columbus or Coloo. It is true indeed, that one cannot well rely on the Fidelity of these People, and that the Italians have not made those Proverbs concerning them without a Cause, viz. Gente Senza fede, Mare senza pesce, Monte senza legno, and Donne senza vergogna; that is, Men without Faith, Sea without Fish, Mountains without Wood, and Women without Shame. At present the City is govern d by a Doge, during Two Years, (as it hath been already intimated) who is assisted with 8 Senators called Governours, certain Procurators, and a Grand Council consisting of 4002 Noblemen, which is usually termed the Signiory. The Publick Revenue is said to be 120000 Crowns Yearly, and yet scarce sufficient to defray the publick Expences. The Inhabitants have heretofore acquir'd much Reputation, by Reason of their notable Exploits; and Genoa hath of late recover'd its Liberty through the Valour, and prudent Conduct of Andrea Doria, who deriv'd his Extraction from the ancient Race of Noblemen of this famous City, which is distant 65 Miles South of Milan, 78 almost South-East of Turin, 80 nigh West of Parma, 140 almost North-West of Florence, and 260 North-West of Rome.

Sarzana, Serezana or Sergianum and Luna Nova, is defended with a very strong Castle on the very Confines of Tuscany, and dignified with the Title of an Episcopal See, under the Metropolitan of Pisa, although exempted from the Jurisdiction of the Archbishop of that Province. It sprang up out of the Ruins of the neighbouring City of Luna, and Pope Nicolas V. a Native of the same Place, caus'd the Bishoprick to be translated thither, A. D. 1450. It stands in the midst between Massa and Spetoia to the West, about 34 Miles from Lucca to the North-West, and 18 from Brugneto.

Brugneto, Brugnetum or Brunictum, is seated at the foot of the Apennine, and on the Banks of the River Verra, at the distance of 9 Miles from Pontremoli to the West; as many from Spezia to the North, and 44 from Genoa to the East. It is a City of a small compass, and ill built, yet honour'd with the Title of an Episcopal See, subject to the Metropolitan of Genoa.

Rapallo, Rapallum, is built on the Eastern Coasts of Genoa, and hath a safe Harbour, being distant only 3 Miles from Portofino, and about 23 from Genoa to the East toward Spezia, from whence a small adjacent Bay is called Il Golfo di Rapallo. But we must distinguish this Town from the Bishoprick of Rapallo, in the Province of Basilicata, in the Kingdom of Naples.

Lavagna, Lavania or Lebonia, is a small Town on the Sea-shore, near the Mouth of a River of the same Name, which was formerly, and even as yet, sometime called Entella, between Chiavari to the West, and Sestri di Levante to the East. The Counts of Fiesque, so much celebrated in History, deriv'd their Original from this Place, which still remains in the Possessions of their Family.

La Spetia, La Spezia, Spedia stands on the side of a Mountain, in a very delightful and fertil Country, which hath induc'd the Genoeses to build divers Houses of Pleasure therein. It is also defended with strong Fortresses, for the safety of those Vessels that ride in the Bay, called from thence Il Golfo della Spetia. This Town, being an ancient Patrimony of the House of Fiesque, is distant 7 Miles from Sarzana, and the Ruins of Luna, as also 4 from Porto Venere to the North, and 11 from Brugneto.