Livonia

Sources from old books

1635. Historia mundi: or Mercator's atlas. London. by Gerhard Mercator.

IN my method Livonia or Levonia, commonly called Liefland, doth follow, concerning the originall of whose name I dare affirme no certainty. But Althamerus writeth thus of it. It may be, saith hee, that the Livonians, the farthest people of Germanie toward the Venedick shore, dwelling under the Parallel of the Island Scandinavia, which is called Gothland, were derived from the Lemovians, but I had rather derive them from the Efflui, for that they are commonly called Eyslenders. Ptolemie also mentioneth the Levonians in his second Booke, cap. 11. And a litle after speaking of the Aestii, hee saith, that Beatus Rhenanus did correct the corrupt reading of Tacitus, and did againe rightly set downe the Nation of the Aestii. In as much as Rhenanus saith, it did appeare, that it was in the first copie Aestui in stead of Aestii, the ancient Writers of Bookes putting U for I. And Althamerus saith, if it were in the ancient copie the Efflui, hee durst affirme, that the Eyslanders were so called from them, by a litle alteration of the word. These people also are called Sudini, and their Countrie Sudina, joyning to Prussia. Some doe place the Lectunni hereabouts, from whom it may be that their name was derived. Livonia is stretched toward the Balthick Sea, or the Venedick Bay, being 500 miles in length, and 160 in breadth. Borussia, Lithuania, and Russia doe encompasse most part of it, the rest the Livonian Bay doth hemme in. The Countrie is plaine and very fertile, it bringeth forth corne in such abundance, that in deare times and yeares of scarcity it supplieth the wants of other Countries. It aboundeth also with the best flaxe, and breedeth store of cattell. Besides, there are in the woods of this Countrie many Beares, Alces, Foxes, Leopards, Cats of the mountaines, and here are many Hares, which according to the season of the yeare doe change their colour, in like manner as they doe in Helvetia upon the Alpes: in the Winter they are white, in Summer of an Ash colour. And heere is such plentifull hunting of wild beasts, that the Countrie people, though they be cruelly used by the Nobles, are not prohibited from it. In briefe, Livonia wanteth none of those things which are necessarie for the preservation and sustentation of mans life, except wine, oyle, and some other things, granted by the divine bountie to other Countries, as being under a more warme and gentle Climate, which yet are brought hither in great abundance. Livonia (being Anno 1200 by the industrie and labour of the Merchants of Bremes, and especially by the Knights of the Dutch order, brought and converted to the Christian Faith) when it had a long time suffered the miseries of forreine and civill warres, and had beene made, as it were, a prey to the neighbour Kings and Princes,at length in the yeare 1559, being under Gothardus Ke•lerus the last Governour of the Dutch Oder, it was received into the protection and government of Sigismundus the King of Poland, as a member of his Kingdome, and of the great Dukedome of Lithuania. But Gothardus resigning his Order on the fifth day of March Anno 1562, in the Castle of Riga, before Nicholas Radziwilus the King of Polands Commissarie, and Palatine of Vilna; as first the Crosse, afterward the Seale, then his Letters Patents, and all Charters which the Order had received from the Emperours and Popes, besides the keyes of the Castle of Riga, and of the gates of the Citie, the office of Commendator, the priviledge and power of coyning money, the custome of fish, and all other rights belonging to him: hee was presently proclaimed by the aforesaid Palatine in the Kings Majesties name Duke of Curland and Semigallia, and straightway the Nobilitie of Curland and Semigallia did take their oath of allegeance before him, as to their lawfull and hereditary Lord. The next day the Duke of Curland, sitting in estate, was proclaimed in the Court of Riga Governour of Livonia, and received the keyes of the castle and the gates of the Citie; after which the Nobility and the Citizens had all their rights and priviledges restored and confirmed unto them. Livonia is divided into three parts, distinguished both by situation and language, namely into Estia, Lettea, and Curlandia. The Provinces of Estia or Eastland are Harria or Harland: the chiefe Citie whereof is Revalia or Revel, being situated toward the North, neere unto the Balthick Sea, and nothing inferiour unto Riga; it was built by Voldemata, and hath a famous Haven. The Citizens use the Lubeck Law, and doe coyne foure-square money. Also the Province of Viria, Virland, or Wirland, in which are Weisenburg, Tolsberg, and Borcholm, the Seate of the Bishop of Revalia. In the third place is Allantika, where is the Towne Nerva or Nerve, by a River of the same name; over against which is the Castle called Ivanow Gorod, belonging to the Moscovites, for the river that runnes between these townes doth part Livonia from Moscovia: also Nyschlot or Neuschlos. In the fourth place is Odenpoa, in which is Derpt or Topatum, an Episcopall Citie, Wernebes, Helmet, and Ringen. In the fifth place is Iervia or Ierven, in which are We•ssenslein, Lais, Overpolen or Ober Paln, and Vellin or Fellin. In the sixth place is Wichia or Wicke, wherein is Abseel or Hapsel, Leal, Lode, and Pernaw. Neere to the Estians lye the Islands Osilia or Osel, Dageden or Dachden, Mona, Wormse or Worist, Wrangen, Kien, and many others, in which they use partly the Estian language, and partly the Swedish. The Cities of Lettea or Letten are Riga, Kokenhusen, Wenden, and Wolmar. Riga is the chiefe citie of Livonia, neere the River Duina, which doth discharge it selfe into the Venedick Bay. This citie is fortified with a strong Wall, with strong Towres, and pieces of Ordnance against any assault, and is strengthned or fenced with double ditches and sharpe stakes round about it. It hath a Castle well provided, in which heretofore the Governour of Livonia (being of the Teutonick or Dutch Order) kept his residence; and this Castle, though Gothardus Ketlerus, aforesaid, did governe in the King of Polands right, yet hee did usurpe no authoritie over the Citie: for the Citizens being strong, and defenders of their libertie, cannot endure to have any Governour or Captaine over them. They doe onely pay tribute and yeeld obedience to the King of Poland, in other things they have Lawes peculiar to themselves. Besides, heere is a Market of all Northerne commodities, as of Pitch, Hemp, Waxe, Timber, and such other things. The Townes and Castles of Curland are Goldingen, Candaw & Windaw, which the Polanders call Kies, and the Germans Wenden: this Towne was famous heretofore, for that the Master of the Teutonick Order did keepe his Court heere, & Parliaments were here wont to be held; now it is defended by a Garrison of Polanders. There are also the Cities Durbin, Srunden, Grubin, Pilten, Amb•t•n, and Hase••ot. The Cities of Semigallia are Mitovia, commonly called Mitaw, where the Duke of Curland kept his Court; also Seleburg▪ •a•••burg, Doblin and Dalem. The River Duina doth divide Semi•allia and Curland from Lettea, and the rest of Livonia. In Livonia there are many Lakes, the chiefest is Beibus which is 45 miles long, and doth abound with divers kindes of fish. The Rivers are Duina, Winda, Beca, and some others. Duina or Duna (which Ptolemie cals Turuntus, and Pe•cerus Rubo) running out of Russia, a great way through Lithuania and Livonia, at length eight miles below Regia powreth it selfe into the •avorick Bay and the Balthick Sea. Winda in like manner dischargeth it selfe into the Balthick Sea, which neere unto the mouth thereof is very deepe, and dangerous. The River Beca, which the Inhabitants call ••••••k, is carried in one channell to the Ocean, and there rushing down headlong from the steepe Rocks, as Leunclavius saith, doth make those dease which dwell neere unto it, as they report the Water-fals of Nilus doth those who inhabite neere unto them. The Countrie hath no mountaines, but is full of thick woods: for heere are the great armes of Hercynia, and other such. At the mouth of Duina neere to the Sea is Dunamunta or Dun•mund (an impregnable Castle, not farre from Riga) kept by a Polish Garrison, to which all ships doe pay a certaine tribute as they passe by. There is also in the mid-way Blokaus, a royall fortresse, which commandeth ships as they sayle by it. There is moreover the castle and citie Felinum or Fellin, in the Dukedome of Estland, which the German hired Souldiers, together with the last Governour of Lavonia, William Furstenberg, by most detestable treachery did betray to the Duke of Moscovia. Ternestum (which others call Taurum) in this Country was heretofore a strong castle, but after it had beene taken by the Moscovites, the Lithuanians marching under the conduct of their Captaine Nicholas Radziwilus Palatine of Vilna, by undermining, and by planting powder under it, did quite demolish it in the yeare 1561. In Livonia many yet doe live in a heathenish manner, and wanting the true knowledge of God, some adore the Sunne, some a Stone, and there are those who doe worship Serpents, and Bushes. When they are to interre and burie a dead body, they banquet freely round about the dead carkasse, and doe drinke to the dead man, powring also upon him a great pot of drinke. Afterward they put him in a Sepulchre, and lay by him an hatchet, meate, drinke, and some money for his journey, and then they crie out, Get thee gone into an other world, to rule over the Germans, as they have heere ruled over thee and thine. They first received the Christian faith under the Emperour Frederick. They account it a fault to be laborious and painfull. The women borne in the countrie carrie a great state with them, & doe despise those women which come from other parts They will not bee called women, but Mistresses, and they never busie themselves with any womans worke, but doe vagarie and wander abroad in the Winter time in Chariots, and in the Summer by Boate. The drinke of the countrie is Mede, Beere, and Wine (which the richer sort onely use, being brought from forraine countries) especially Rhenish Wine. The women doe disgrace the beauty and comlinesse of their bodies, by the disguisednesse of their garments. The commodities which are transported out of Livonia into Germanie & other Countries, are Waxe, Honey, Ashes, Pitch and Tarre, Hemp, Skins of divers wilde beasts, and Hides. Also that kinde of corne which the Latines call Secale, and wee Rye, is yearely transported in great plenty from hence into Germanie and other bordering countries. Having explained and declared thus much concerning Livonia, I hope it will bee a matter acceptable to the Reader, if heere for conclusion I shall adde some thing concerning those Lycaons, or men transformed into wolves, who are reported to be very frequent and common in this place. There are Writers, who thinke themselves worthy to be beleeved (among which is Olaus Magnus) that doe affirme, that in this Countrie every yeare some men are turned into wolves. I will heere set downe his owne words, thereby to recreate the minde of the Reader with the relation of an unheard of noveltie: and thus hee writes in his 18 Booke cap. 45. Although in Prussia, Livonia, and Lithuania, all the Inhabitants all the yeare are much endammaged by ravening Wolves, because every where in the woods they teare in pieces, and devoure a great number of their cattell, if they stray never so little from the flock or heard; yet they esteeme not this losse so great, as that which they sustaine, by men changed and transformed into wolves. For in Christmas, in the night time, such a companie of men•wolves doe gather themselves together, and shew such fierie cruelty both towards men and other creatures, which are not wilde by nature, that the Inhabitants of this Coun¦trie doe receive more detriment and losse from these than from true and natu¦rall wolves. For as it is found out by experience, they doe besiege mens houses standing in the woods with much fiercenesse, and doe strive to breake open the doores, that so they may destroy and prey upon the men and other creatures that are within. But of these things wee have spoken enough, let us goe forward to Russia.