Mazandaran, Province

1673. Asia. The first part being an accurate description of Persia, and the several provinces thereof by John Ogilby.

The Province of Mazanderan.

THe Province of Mazanderan or Mazanderon, conterminates in the West with Gilan or Kilan; the East Borders upon Estarabat; the South touches Erack, Media, and a part of Gilan; and the North verges with the Bacu, or Caspian Sea: Its length is accounted to be thirty Leagues, and Compriseth twenty five Cities, the Metropolis of which bears the same Denomination with the Province; but Della Valla and Olearius name it Ferhabad, and aver, that formerly it was call'd Tahona.

The City Ferhabad which lies about two thousand Paces from the Caspian Sea, is in a great Plain, and (as Della Valla witnesseth) in a few years after the first Building, grew to the bigness of Rome or Constantinople, but was not inclos'd with Walls; Nor have the chief Cities in this Countrey any such Inclosures. The Teggine Rude, that is, The Swist-River, runs through the middle of the City, over which there is but one Bridge, but that neatly built, in that place where commonly the greatest concourse or People is; in other parts, a good distance from the Bridge, they Ferry over in slat-bottom'd Boats, made of one great Tree. This Place, by reason of its nearness to the Caspian Sea, and convenience of the beforemention'd River, is accounted a Sea-port Town, because the Ships Sail up to the aforenam'd Bridge, where they drop their Anchors; and though the Vessels are not very big, yet all that drive this Trade, viz. to the City Gilan, Esterabad, Bacu, Demircapt, and to Astracan in Muscovia, lade and unlade here. King Abbas not long since call'd it Ferhabad, that is, The City of perfect Joy, which is an Arabick word, compounded of Fer, which signifies Joy, and Habad, that is, Finished. Two Reasons induc'd the King to build this City, the one was a desire he had to beautifie his Kingdom, and extend the Limits thereof (for he built divers Cities in several other places;) the other was his kindness to this particular Region; partly because it was the Birth-place of his Mother, and partly because it was the strongest part of his Dominions: for it lies on one side surrounded with the unnavigable part of the Caspian Sea, and on the other with inaccessible Mountains, through which none can come but by narrow and craggy Paths; besides all which, this Countrey lay remotest from the Enemy, especially from the Turks. The Houses in the beginning were not above a Story high, and cover'd onely with Canes, to keep out the Weather: The Walls consist of a certain Stuff very common in this Countrey, which being mix'd with Straw is call'd Calghil, that is. Straw and Earth; to which a quantity of Sand being added, and beaten like Mortar, makes a most strong and durable Cement. But the King's Palace is built of Sun-dry'd Brick, which in the time of a great Fire proving a safeguard to it self and all within, caus'd the King to command all the Houses to be built of the like Materials.

Eastward from thence lies a City call'd Eskerf, about two Leagues from the same Sea, at the end of a large Plain, near the foot of a Mountain, which environs the same on the South side. This City was also built by Abbas, at the same time with Ferhabad: It hath many Gardens, and a great Bazar, or Street full of Shops, besides divers other meaner Houses, standing without order among shady Groves in a delightful Plain, which is full of Inhabitants, sent thither by the King; and is much frequented, especially when the Court Resides there, which is the greatest part of the Summer; for in Winter Ferhabad was the Royal Chamber: and this the King did to draw Inhabitants thither, and cause a Trade; and likewise because it was well seated for Hunting, and other Recreations. The Houses are built under high Trees, and so shaded with the Boughs, that they are scarce to be seen, insomuch that one may doubt whether Eskerf be a City erected in a Wood, or a Grove inhabited like a City. In the middle of the Gardens behind the Houses, stand Chambers, or rather, Galleries, (because they are onely cover'd on the top) which being about a Man's heighth above the Ground, are ascended to by Steps, and serve both for Eating and Sleeping Rooms in Summer, by reason of their coolness, and are in the Countrey Language call'd Balachane, that is, A high House: And this is so common, and the Inhabitants so us'd to repose in open Rooms, that they would incur great inconvenience by a more close retiredness. The Streets are broad, extending far in a straight Line; before the Houses are Channels, to receive and carry away the Water, which else, by reason of their even lying, would make them very dirty: In one of which stands a Royal Building, the chiefest Gate whereof opens into a long and spacious Street. Upon one side of this Palace may be seen a square Court, crossing which you come to a Garden Door, into which none but Grandees are permitted to enter. This Garden lies behind the Palace at the foot of a Hill, beset with Trees, and adorn'd with Banquetting-houses built on the same by King Abbas. The Garden being one large Square, hath in the middle a Dewanchane, or Terrace-Walk; twice as long as broad, open towards the North, with an Ascent of two or three Steps, but behind, and on the other side, clos'd up with a Wall, wherein are divers large Windows. Through this runs a crystal Stream, brought from an adjacent Spring, opposite to the Diwanchane. The Floor of this Diwanchane is commonly cover'd with Tapistry at the time of Audience, when any Persons of Quality kneel on the same before the King.

The Province of Mazanderan is inhabited by several sorts of People, which are of divers Tribes and Beliefs, sent thither by King Abbas after the building of Ferhabad and Eskerf, particularly Georgians, who in some sort Profess'd Christianity; Mahumetans, Armenians, and Medes, together with some of his own Subjects.; where the King gave every one Land to Till and maintain his Family, and encourag'd them to follow such Employments as they had been accustom'd to in their own Countrey: and to that purpose accommodated them to their several Qualifications. The Mahumetans are the smallest number, and the Christians (being for the most part Georgians and Armenians) the biggest, who had all leave to build as many Houses or Churches as they pleas'd, and are tolerated to enjoy their own Religion quietly.

All these new Inhabitants of this Countrey wear long Breeches and short Coats, not reaching down to their Knees, with an upper Garment made fast about their Middle with a Girdle; they wear no Turbants, onely a little Cap, in the Persian Tongue call'd Cork, made of Leather, and Lin'd with Cloth, sharp on the top, and broad at the bottom; which were invented by King Abbas. These kind of Caps are very common, and worn within Doors in stead of Turbants by Persons of Quality, but when they go abroad they put on their Turbants, yet their Servants carry these after their Masters.

The Language which is spoken in this Province, is the vulgar Persian. The supream Command of the whole Province belongs to a Vice-Roy or Lieutenant, who bears the Title of Chan, and keeps his Court in Ferhabad. But in former times this Province was Govern'd by a peculiar King, which paid Tribute to the Sophy; but he rebelling, Xa Abas sent his General thither to reduce him. This Province is surrounded with great Woods, cut through by several Brooks, and inclos'd with Mountains overgrown with Trees, insomuch that Della Valla affirms, that this Countrey bore so great a resemblance with those of Europe, that he saw not the like in all those Parts through which he travell'd.

The Soil is very fruitful, and us'd to lie Fallow, through the neglect and idleness of the Inhabitants: The Earth being fat and Morassy, is encompass'd by the Caspian Sea and River Teggine Rude.

The temperature of the Air is much like that at description PAGE 33 Rome, viz. in the Winter moist, and subject to tempestuous Weather: moreover, they feel the same Heat or Cold there, which is no great wonder, because both the foremention'd Places lie almost in one and the same Northern Latitude, having great, and almost continual Winter Rains. At the entrance on the South out of the Territory of Arack, into that of Mazanderan; lies a very narrow Valley at the foot of several Mountains, which after three Leagues Journey grows somewhat wider, and is wash'd by a little Brook. This Plain, though well cultivated, produces nothing but Rice; and the like do most places in this whole Province, being indeed most fit for that Grain, by reason of the abundance of Water and moistness of the Soil (for Rice requires moisture,) or else that it is the chiefest, if not onely Grain of the Inhabitants, for they use no other Bread, not setting any esteem upon Wheat or Rye, neither use much Milk, Whit-meat, or Butter, because they think them unwholsom; but of Rice, which they boyl sometimes one way, and sometimes another, mingled with Flesh or Fruit, they make several savory Dishes, which they call Pilao's, according to their several Palats. This Pilao is convenient for Travellers, because it may be made ready in a short time, and keeps good a great while, and withal is a wholsom and palatable Food.

The Inhabitants are of a sallow Complexion, occasion'd by the Heats of the Climate, and constant eating of Rice, and their Hair and Eyebrows very black. The Women are very handsom Body'd, and have good Features, which they grace with a courteous Behavior, and affability in Discourse; and this is the more pleasing, because (according to their Custom, in which they differ very much from other Mahumetans) they never cover their Faces, nor shun the Company of Men. Both Men and Women are hospitable, treating Strangers in their Houses with the highest Civility imaginable, not expecting any Return, yet refuse not any thing Presented to them; for there are no Inns or Caravansera's to give public Entertainment, but every House (as we said, is free to receive Strangers; wherefore we may justly say, that there is no Countrey where the Inhabitants are more hospitable and civil; so that Hircania (which the Ancients reported to be full of Tygers and other wild Beasts,) if Mazanderan be compris'd in the same, is one of the most civiliz'd Territories that can be found in all Asia, and the Inhabitants thereof have a suitable commendation.

The Land between the City Ferhabad and Eskerf is even and plain, on which grow wild Artichokes, Parsnips, and the like.

You may see here also many Towns and Villages, as you travel from Arack Southward to Ferhabad, particularly a Village call'd Mynikelle. Four Leagues from thence lies another call d Giru; the Road between both which in the Winter is very bad arid deep, by reason of the continual wetness of the Ground. A days Journey farther you come to Tellara Pescet, a large Hamlet, having on one fide many dispersed Villages, and on the other, a Hilly Countrey. Beyond these appears a great Wood, through which is a broad Way shadow'd by high Trees. This Road is very plashy, because many little Brooks run in it, which in the Winter makes it so deep and rotten, that the Camels, though they have long Legs, often sink up to the Knees. Four Leagues from this Village lies a strong, large, and populous Place, call'd Saru, where the King hath a magnificent Palace, and thereby has gain'd the repute of a City, though consisting chiefly of a sort of Thatch'd Houses, except a few scatter'd Dwellings that are Tyl'd: It is call'd Saru, which signifies Yellow, from the abundance of Oranges, and other yellowish Fruits that grow about the same. Beyond Saru lie several great Plains, which in former Ages were overgrown with Woods, but since that being clear'd and Manur'd, they are become very fertile, and the Ways, which then were very deep are now (the Ground lying open to the Sun) become very hard, and some places of late made into Pav'd Cawseys. These Plains are also inhabited by several People, most of them Christians, sent thither from divers Countreys An. 1620. to make several Plantations, especially from Armenia and Georgia. The Way from Saru hath all along the sides, Houses rais'd onely of Boughs and Mud, viz. of the Trees which were cut down in the same place by the Inhabitants, to make the Countrey fit for Cultivation. This Province is divided from the South to the North by, the River Teggine Rude, which taking original out of the Mountains more Southward of the Rice-Valley, runs through it, as also the City Ferhabad; two thousand Paces from which it discharges its Waters into the Caspian Sea, having in the Way receiv'd so many Brooks, Streams, and Rivulets, that from the City Saru it is Navigable with flat-bottom'd Boats, made on purpose of the Bodies of great Trees to Row with Oars: Some of them can carry ten or twelve Men, or Goods of the like Burthen. The Townsmen of Ferhabad often go out a Fishing for their Pleasure into the Caspian Sea with such Boats, and make use of them in the City to go from one place to another.

About a League from Ferhabad glides the Erook Cinon, which also sends its Water into the Caspian Sea, and is somewhat broader than the Teggine Rude.

The County Lahetzan, where the best Silk is to be had, campriseth the Towns Lenkeru, Cutzesbar, and Amelekende.